Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

China Objects to Expanded US Forced-Labor Import List

Beijing and a cotton industry group publicly rejected the widened UFLPA entity list, per WWD — a signal of continued friction for cotton-linked sourcing.

via WWD

WWD reports that Beijing and a Chinese cotton industry group have criticized the expansion of the US forced-labor import blacklist, describing it as what one statement called a "classic act of economic coercion." According to the report, both parties said the forced-labor allegations "lack factual and legal basis." The expanded entity list widens the set of suppliers whose goods can be detained at US entry. The response, as reported, points to continued friction for brands running cotton-linked sourcing programs.

02

Chanel Names Hélène de Tissot Chief Financial Officer

Chanel has appointed a new CFO effective October, per Drapers and The Business of Fashion — a finance-seat change at a privately held major luxury house.

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Chanel has announced the appointment of Hélène de Tissot as chief financial officer, effective from October, according to Drapers and The Business of Fashion. The company is one of the few large luxury houses that remains privately held, so its finance leadership is not subject to public-market disclosure. The change takes effect as the wider luxury sector reports slower demand. Neither report indicates further changes to the executive team.

03

eBay Completes Acquisition of Resale Platform Depop

Drapers reports the deal closed 30 July, placing a major secondhand marketplace under a large platform owner and consolidating resale supply.

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eBay has completed its acquisition of the secondhand marketplace Depop, effective from 30 July, according to Drapers. The close places resale supply under a larger marketplace owner. For brands weighing secondhand distribution, the change concentrates a share of that channel with a single platform, along with its terms. Drapers' report does not detail post-close operating plans for Depop.

04

LVMH and Kering Results Point to Fragile Luxury Recovery

The Business of Fashion reads this week's results from the two largest luxury groups as a tentative recovery against sluggish Chinese demand — the clearest read yet for suppliers and wholesale partners.

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The Business of Fashion reports that this week's LVMH and Kering results suggest a fragile recovery is underway, with the outlet citing sluggish Chinese demand, succession questions, wildfires and heat waves as pressures on the period. nss magazine also covered the quarter. The two groups are the largest in the sector, so their numbers give wholesale partners and suppliers a read on conditions heading into the second half. The characterization of the recovery as fragile is BoF's assessment rather than a company forecast.

Also moving today

  • Can the EU Ban on Destroying Unsold Goods Actually Work? The Business of Fashion
  • Fashion fight: a Japanese rival may be emerging to challenge Spain's Zara and China's Shein | Mint mint
  • India Changes Rule in Win for Foreign E-Commerce Companies The Business of Fashion
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Tuesday, August fourth, and we begin with Beijing's response, reported by WWD, to Washington's expanded forced labor entity list. Beijing and a Chinese cotton industry group have called the expanded UFLPA entity list a classic act of economic coercion, according to WWD. Both say the forced labor allegations lack factual and legal basis, on that account. The expansion adds forty-three companies to the list, per the same reporting. Each addition widens the set of suppliers whose goods can be detained on entry to the United States, so the practical weight of this lands on importer documentation rather than on any single mill. Among trade-compliance practitioners, a recurring observation is that nearly all the newly listed firms had already surfaced in commercial forced labor risk screening years before the designation, which some read as enforcement catching up to signals importers could already see. Some reaction also flags that roughly half the additions sit outside Xinjiang, and span metals and other inputs rather than textiles alone, an early signal on that view that exposure screening may need to widen beyond cotton and beyond a single geography. Also today, a finance seat changes hands at one of the few remaining privately held luxury majors, and it turns over while demand is still soft. Chanel has appointed Hélène de Tissot as chief financial officer, effective from October, Drapers reports. The Business of Fashion frames the exit of Chanel's finance chief after fifteen years in the role as part of a generational change at the French couture and beauty group, and across the wider luxury industry. Reaction beyond the routine congratulations leans toward reading the appointment as a cross-industry signal, with some practitioners framing finance leadership drawn from premium spirits as a bet on distribution discipline, tighter retail channel control and Asia market fluency rather than pure cost stewardship. A recurring view in that thread is that an outsider's value here is protecting creative freedom rather than importing an existing playbook. Separately, eBay has completed its acquisition of secondhand marketplace Depop, effective from the thirtieth of July, per Drapers. That consolidates a large slice of peer-to-peer fashion resale supply under a single marketplace owner, putting platform terms, fees and category rules for that channel in one place for any brand weighing secondhand distribution. Discussion in the trade leans toward reading the deal defensively rather than expansively. A recurring point is that a fast-growing European rival has taken the bulk of UK peer-to-peer fashion resale share in roughly four years, while the acquirer's own position eroded. A contrarian thread notes the price came in below what the previous owner paid years earlier, even as the business kept growing quickly, which some frame as a reset in resale valuations. Others push back, arguing the value sits in acquiring a very young buyer base and its long-run lifetime value rather than in near-term multiples. Now, the wider read on the first half. The Business of Fashion argues this week's LVMH and Kering results describe a fragile recovery, running against sluggish Chinese demand, succession drama, wildfires and heat waves. Following our earlier reporting on the return to growth at both groups, the argument is that muddling through, rather than a turn, is what the numbers actually show, which is the frame wholesale partners and suppliers now have to plan the second half against. nss magazine puts Hermès second-quarter growth at six point seven percent, in line with expectations and slightly ahead of the first quarter, helped by tourism returning to Europe and demand in the United States. Leather goods grew ten percent and account for about half of group revenue on that account, with Japan up two and a half percent. That read holds the sector has passed its most critical phase without being clear of it, with improvement concentrated in a handful of categories and markets that remain uneven. Investor-side reaction leans skeptical that the divergence marks a genuine turn, with several framing better-than-expected numbers as decline slowing rather than recovery starting, and premium multiples leaving little room for execution slips. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Following our coverage of the European Union ban on destroying unsold goods, The Business of Fashion reports companies from luxury groups to high street giants are rethinking disposal, with critics saying loopholes could blunt the rules. Mint argues Fast Retailing's cheaper, trendier GU brand could become a third pole in global fast fashion against Zara and Shein, if the rollout goes properly global. And finally, India will let foreign e-commerce companies buy directly from Indian sellers and sell to overseas customers, per The Business of Fashion, a change Amazon lobbied for.