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Welcome in, today is Tuesday, August fourth, and we begin with Beijing's response, reported by WWD, to Washington's expanded forced labor entity list.
Beijing and a Chinese cotton industry group have called the expanded UFLPA entity list a classic act of economic coercion, according to WWD. Both say the forced labor allegations lack factual and legal basis, on that account. The expansion adds forty-three companies to the list, per the same reporting. Each addition widens the set of suppliers whose goods can be detained on entry to the United States, so the practical weight of this lands on importer documentation rather than on any single mill. Among trade-compliance practitioners, a recurring observation is that nearly all the newly listed firms had already surfaced in commercial forced labor risk screening years before the designation, which some read as enforcement catching up to signals importers could already see. Some reaction also flags that roughly half the additions sit outside Xinjiang, and span metals and other inputs rather than textiles alone, an early signal on that view that exposure screening may need to widen beyond cotton and beyond a single geography.
Also today, a finance seat changes hands at one of the few remaining privately held luxury majors, and it turns over while demand is still soft. Chanel has appointed Hélène de Tissot as chief financial officer, effective from October, Drapers reports. The Business of Fashion frames the exit of Chanel's finance chief after fifteen years in the role as part of a generational change at the French couture and beauty group, and across the wider luxury industry. Reaction beyond the routine congratulations leans toward reading the appointment as a cross-industry signal, with some practitioners framing finance leadership drawn from premium spirits as a bet on distribution discipline, tighter retail channel control and Asia market fluency rather than pure cost stewardship. A recurring view in that thread is that an outsider's value here is protecting creative freedom rather than importing an existing playbook.
Separately, eBay has completed its acquisition of secondhand marketplace Depop, effective from the thirtieth of July, per Drapers. That consolidates a large slice of peer-to-peer fashion resale supply under a single marketplace owner, putting platform terms, fees and category rules for that channel in one place for any brand weighing secondhand distribution. Discussion in the trade leans toward reading the deal defensively rather than expansively. A recurring point is that a fast-growing European rival has taken the bulk of UK peer-to-peer fashion resale share in roughly four years, while the acquirer's own position eroded. A contrarian thread notes the price came in below what the previous owner paid years earlier, even as the business kept growing quickly, which some frame as a reset in resale valuations. Others push back, arguing the value sits in acquiring a very young buyer base and its long-run lifetime value rather than in near-term multiples.
Now, the wider read on the first half. The Business of Fashion argues this week's LVMH and Kering results describe a fragile recovery, running against sluggish Chinese demand, succession drama, wildfires and heat waves. Following our earlier reporting on the return to growth at both groups, the argument is that muddling through, rather than a turn, is what the numbers actually show, which is the frame wholesale partners and suppliers now have to plan the second half against. nss magazine puts Hermès second-quarter growth at six point seven percent, in line with expectations and slightly ahead of the first quarter, helped by tourism returning to Europe and demand in the United States. Leather goods grew ten percent and account for about half of group revenue on that account, with Japan up two and a half percent. That read holds the sector has passed its most critical phase without being clear of it, with improvement concentrated in a handful of categories and markets that remain uneven. Investor-side reaction leans skeptical that the divergence marks a genuine turn, with several framing better-than-expected numbers as decline slowing rather than recovery starting, and premium multiples leaving little room for execution slips.
Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Following our coverage of the European Union ban on destroying unsold goods, The Business of Fashion reports companies from luxury groups to high street giants are rethinking disposal, with critics saying loopholes could blunt the rules.
Mint argues Fast Retailing's cheaper, trendier GU brand could become a third pole in global fast fashion against Zara and Shein, if the rollout goes properly global.
And finally, India will let foreign e-commerce companies buy directly from Indian sellers and sell to overseas customers, per The Business of Fashion, a change Amazon lobbied for.