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Welcome back, today is Wednesday, August fifth, and we begin with Chanel, where Bloomberg reports first-half sales running ahead of the sector's listed leaders.
Chanel's comparable revenue rose about sixteen percent in the first half. That figure comes from Bloomberg, sourced to a person familiar with the performance, and we have not seen it matched elsewhere. The same reporting puts that growth ahead of listed rivals including LVMH, and credits spending by wealthy shoppers on the first collections from designer Matthieu Blazy. Chanel is privately held, which makes the number the sector's clearest available read on how a creative transition is landing at the top of the market. The Business of Fashion, citing that reporting, says sales are accelerating after last year's return to growth, and puts beauty sales up eight percent. Industry reaction leans toward crediting the ownership structure as much as the strategy, with a recurring, contrarian read that investing through a slowdown is a privilege of not having to answer for a weak quarter. Some in the trade point instead to pricing architecture, rebuilding an entry point at full price rather than discounting, as the more consequential move.
Also today, British Vogue's read on second-quarter luxury earnings is that the sector cleared expectations while share reactions swung in both directions. HSBC had anticipated four point three percent growth in global luxury sales for the quarter. Average organic growth across the sector landed at seven percent, on that account, and nearer eight excluding the Middle East effect, in line with the pre-pandemic compound rate. Hermès shares still fell eleven percent on a six point seven percent sales uplift, while Kering rose seventeen percent on two percent growth. Following our earlier reporting on luxury's return to growth, the same analysis puts the engine narrower than the headline. Jewellery led, with Richemont's maisons up twenty-four percent against expectations of thirteen, and a Morgan Stanley managing director quoted there says the spending base is American and Korean, with China flat at best. Industry reaction leans toward a sector now graded on the gap to forecasts rather than on growth itself.
Separately, Salvatore Ferragamo swung to a net profit for the first half after second-quarter sales growth, per The Business of Fashion, which reports the turnaround showing most clearly in the directly owned store base. The shares went the other way. WWD reports the stock fell on the Milan exchange on Tuesday, with that account tying the move to a trading update on strained July sales in the United States rather than to the profit line. For wholesale partners and suppliers planning against the Italian group's recovery, the half-year print and the July commentary point in different directions. Industry reaction focuses less on the return to profit than on the forward commentary, with a recurring read that a softer July, surfaced around the analyst call rather than in the headline numbers, is what the share move is pricing.
Now, Shein's listing. Three people familiar with the matter put the target valuation for its Hong Kong offering at thirty to forty billion dollars, with a launch as early as mid-August, according to Reuters reporting carried by The Journal Record and The Star. Following our earlier coverage of the argument that Shein would struggle to justify up to fifty billion, that account says the target is not final, and that some potential cornerstone investors are pushing closer to thirty or thirty-two billion. Private rounds valued the company at sixty-four billion in twenty twenty-three and again in April twenty twenty-four. At the target range, Shein would price at roughly zero point seven to one times twenty twenty-five sales, against Inditex at four point six and Fast Retailing at seven point six, on Reuters calculations. That is the comparable the rest of the listed fast-fashion set gets marked against. Industry reaction leans toward reading the reset as structural rather than sentiment-driven, with a recurring frame that the cost edge rested on low-value parcel exemptions rather than an owned brand moat.
A few more headlines moving the trade today. Sourcing Journal, via WWD, puts the hundred largest listed apparel, textile and luxury companies at seven hundred thirty-one point five billion dollars in annual sales, led by LVMH, Christian Dior and Nike. Hugo Boss reported second-quarter EBIT down twenty-eight percent year on year to fifty-nine million euros, while citing what it called tangible progress in its turnaround, per Drapers. And finally, WME has sold the intellectual property, trademarks and logos behind New York Fashion Week to media company Signet Fashion for an undisclosed sum, also per Drapers.