Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 4:30

In today's edition

01

European luxury groups shed about €250bn in value

Top European luxury groups have lost roughly €250bn of market value this year, per the Financial Times, as Chinese consumer spending softens and equity markets cool — the number now framing sector budgets.

Top European luxury groups have shed about €250bn of market value so far this year, according to the Financial Times, which attributes the fall to wilting spending by Chinese consumers and cooling global stock markets. The reporting describes the slowdown in China and an AI-driven equity market pullback as compounding an existing downturn for the sector. Bloomberg and the New York Post also covered the repricing. For operators, the figure sets the scale against which budget, hiring and capex decisions are now being made.

02

Kering falls 12% as Gucci weakness spreads

Kering shares dropped 12% after another Gucci sales decline, with LVMH and Hermès also slipping, per Finimize — suggesting pressure across the category rather than at one house.

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Kering shares fell 12% after Gucci reported another sales drop, according to Finimize, which reports the weakness rippled through to LVMH and Hermès. Both outlets cite weak Chinese demand and higher oil prices as shared pressures on luxury shoppers. FashionUnited also reported the moves. Whether the decline is specific to Gucci or category-wide remains unresolved on the available reporting.

03

French and Italian retailers count protest-related losses

Stores in France and Italy boarded windows and cut hours ahead of a second round of protests, WWD reports, adding store-level costs even though most demonstrations stayed peaceful.

via WWD↗
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Retailers in France and Italy boarded up windows and shortened opening hours in anticipation of renewed looting during a second round of protests, according to WWD. WWD reports most of the protests remained peaceful. The outlet describes stores tallying the cost of lost business from the closures and reduced hours. The disruption bears on store-level footfall, insurance and staffing assumptions in both markets.

04

EU ban limits destruction of unsold luxury stock

Large companies have been barred from destroying unsold goods since July 2026, per NEWS.am STYLE, constraining a scarcity-protection practice and pushing excess stock toward resale, donation or recycling.

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Luxury brands have long destroyed unsold goods to preserve exclusivity and prevent collections from losing value, according to NEWS.am STYLE. The outlet reports that since July 2026 the European Union has prohibited large companies from the practice. The report names Chanel, Gucci and Burberry among the brands under scrutiny; the specifics of each company's practices are not independently confirmed here. Under the rule as described, houses would route excess stock into resale, donation or recycling and document its disposal.

Also moving today

  • Goldman Sachs sees luxury goods revenue up 7 per cent in 2027 newKerala.com
  • Debenhams Group swings to first pre-tax profit in five years Drapers
  • John Lewis expands rapid delivery with Deliveroo and Uber Eats Drapers
  • Nigel Oddy American Golf exit and Skechers MD EMEA: this week’s fashion retail people moves Drapers
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Monday, October twenty-sixth, and we begin with the Financial Times putting a fresh number on Europe's luxury repricing. The Financial Times reports Europe's six largest listed luxury groups have lost about two hundred fifty-one billion euros of market value this year, the steepest declines at LVMH and Hermès. That account ties the slide to wilting Chinese spending and AI-driven equity wobbles, and it follows our earlier report on the sector's three hundred fifty billion dollar drop. Per the same reporting, Chinese monthly retail sales growth has averaged under half a percent for six months, and a twenty percent tax on income from offshore trusts took effect this week. LVMH said fashion and leather sales to Chinese clients globally fell by a mid-teens percentage. Kering put its decline among Chinese consumers at fifteen to twenty percent. Citi card data in that account has United States luxury spending down at least four percent in July, August and September. Bloomberg has the sector's shares at their cheapest in more than a decade. That is the valuation floor the next round of budget, hiring and capex plans gets set against. Industry reaction leans toward reading this as a market turning more selective rather than simply smaller, with the middle of the pyramid seen as the weakest spot. Also today, Kering shares fell twelve percent after another Gucci sales drop, according to Finimize, with LVMH and Hermès sliding alongside. FashionUnited has the stock at its lowest since July twenty twenty-five and Richemont weakening too, which is what turns a single-brand stumble into a sector read. That reporting cites Deutsche Bank Research saying a turnaround stays difficult without convincing stabilisation at the label. Finimize says Kering is holding to Luca de Meo's plan and accelerating to one hundred twenty-five store closures by year end, and points to weaker Chinese demand and higher oil prices squeezing households. It follows our earlier report on that third quarter print. Per FashionUnited, L'Oréal ran the other way, up four percent. Industry reaction leans sceptical that acclaimed creative direction is converting into sales. Separately, retailers in France and Italy are tallying the cost of a second round of protests. WWD reports stores boarded up windows and shortened hours in anticipation of renewed looting, though most protests remained peaceful. That is as far as the account goes. It follows our earlier report on Lacoste and Louis Vuitton among the brands hit in the first round. Boarded frontage and clipped hours cost money whether or not a window breaks, and this lands weeks out from peak trading, with security cover and insurance terms priced off exactly this kind of repeat. Now to a rule the industry has been working around. NEWS dot a m Style, citing Bloomberg, reports the European Union's Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation has barred large companies from destroying unsold clothing and footwear since July, and that from March twenty twenty-seven brands must report how many items they destroyed and why. Disclosure is the part with teeth, because it shows competitors which collections failed. That account says leather goods, including handbags, are exempt, as are some limited editions, and destruction stays permitted when resale or donation fails within eight weeks. It also reports Kering dropped the word prohibited from its latest unsold-goods policy, and that Kering and Burberry declined to comment. Compliance practitioners' recurring concern is that supply contracts still treat unsold stock as disposable. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Goldman Sachs forecasts seven percent revenue growth for major listed luxury brands in twenty twenty-seven, per newKerala, with roughly sixty percent post-pandemic price rises flagged as a cause of the slump. Debenhams Group reported nineteen point seven million pounds of EBITDA for the six months to thirty-first of August and its first pre-tax profit in five years, Drapers reports. John Lewis is putting around ten thousand products onto Deliveroo and Uber Eats for delivery in as little as thirty minutes, according to Drapers. And finally, Drapers has this week's fashion retail people moves, among them Nigel Oddy's exit from American Golf and a new Skechers managing director for EMEA.