Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

Fashion Pact names Pavlovsky co-chair, adds two to committee

The voluntary sustainability coalition changes leadership, which sets who convenes the climate and biodiversity targets member brands report against.

The Fashion Pact has named Chanel's Bruno Pavlovsky as co-chair, with Gildo Zegna and Pier Paolo Righi joining its executive committee, according to FashionNetwork.com, modaes.com and WWD. The initiative, launched during the 2019 G7 summit, groups brands from entry-level to luxury around shared targets on climate, biodiversity and oceans. The reports do not specify term lengths or changes to the coalition's existing targets.

02

Milan luxury stores close after unrest; group estimates €1 million damage

Chanel, Hermès and Pomellato shut doors in Milan's luxury district, putting store security and insurance costs on the near-term agenda.

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Chanel, Hermès and Pomellato closed Milan stores on Oct. 19 following weekend unrest in the city's luxury district, EconoTimes reports. A local business group estimates damage at €1 million; that figure is the group's own and has not been independently verified. Italy's Cabinet is expected to consider security measures on Oct. 20, per the same account.

03

Kering and LVMH tighten model-protection charter; questions remain

Two of the largest luxury groups strengthen their model-welfare rules, which casting agencies and production partners will work to.

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Kering and LVMH have announced a strengthened charter on the protection of models, FashionNetwork.com reports, following a season in which commentator Sophie Fontanel and others criticised the extreme thinness of models on runways. The report says the tightened terms effectively set the standard for the groups' casting agencies and production partners. It also notes that enforcement questions remain open, without detailing a verification or sanctions mechanism.

04

Rubio says US-India trade deal is close

Movement on the US-India trade file touches apparel and footwear sourcing costs for brands using India as a China alternative.

via WWD↗
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Secretary of State Marco Rubio met his Indian counterpart in Mumbai to revive trade talks stalled by tariff disputes, agricultural protections and India's reliance on Russian oil, WWD reports. Rubio described a deal as close, per the account. No terms or timeline have been confirmed.

Also moving today

  • As tariffs hit its supply chain, Veja refocuses on growth Glossy
  • Pierre Cardin Launching in SoHo WWD
  • After Returning to Madison Avenue, Smythson Has an Appetite for More U.S. Sites WWD
  • Alo Launches Hong Kong Sanctuary Store With Drone Show, Jisoo WWD
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Wednesday, October twenty-first, and we begin with a leadership change at the top of fashion's main sustainability coalition, reported by WWD. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel's fashion division and of Chanel SAS, has been named co-chair of The Fashion Pact. WWD reports the appointment took effect October thirteenth, and that he sits on the steering committee alongside Inditex chief executive Óscar García Maceiras and co-founder Paul Polman. That puts him at the convening table for the science-based emissions targets more than fifty signatories report against. Per the same reporting, Pavlovsky recently stepped down from Chanel's board. FashionNetwork reports further governance changes. Gildo Zegna, executive president of the Ermenegildo Zegna group, and Pier Paolo Righi, chief executive of Karl Lagerfeld, join the executive committee, while Gerald Corbae of Noabrands and Laurent Milchior of Etam rotate off. That account says Corbae stays on without voting rights. The coalition says its focus from twenty twenty-seven shifts to implementation and to scaling solutions across supply chains. Also today, EconoTimes reports that Chanel, Hermès and Pomellato closed Milan stores on October nineteenth after two days of clashes around Piazza del Duomo. That follows our earlier report on looting and vandalism hitting French retailers. Citing ANSA, the same account puts Confcommercio Milano's business damage estimate at about one million euros, a trade-group figure rather than an independently verified one, with lost sales and hotel and restaurant cancellations on top. That reporting, citing Reuters, says police patrolled Via Montenapoleone while other retailers cleared their window displays. Deputy Prime Minister Matteo Salvini announced plans to send five hundred additional troops, part of a decree awaiting Cabinet consideration, with a broader security package expected on October twentieth. Some in the trade read Milan as one node in a wider European protest wave, which keeps flagship districts on the security and insurance agenda rather than treating this as a one-off. Separately, a FashionNetwork analysis presses on what the strengthened LVMH and Kering model-protection charter leaves open, following our earlier report on that update. The piece, carrying comment from Model Law president Ekaterina Ozhiganova, welcomes the minimum age of eighteen but argues the text stays thin on models' economic conditions, and that a clause requiring contracts to comply with local law adds nothing. That argument says the new promise of fair remuneration has no monitoring attached. Per the same reporting, Kering says the annual committee set out in the twenty seventeen charter met formally once, with later oversight taking the form of dialogue. The read also questions minimum sizes set without measurements in centimetres. Reaction leans supportive but conditional, with the next show season treated as the test. Now, to trade. WWD reports that Secretary of State Marco Rubio, meeting his Indian counterpart in Mumbai, says a United States and India trade deal is close. That account says the talks had stalled over tariff disputes, agricultural protections and India's reliance on Russian oil, and it puts no terms and no timeline on the record. For brands using India as a China alternative, this file reads straight through to landed apparel and footwear costs. Sourcing practitioners lean skeptical of the close-to-done framing, a recurring note being that earlier rounds were described in similarly near-final terms, and the advice is to plan around a likely deal rather than a signed one. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Glossy reports Veja is sticking with its established supply chain as additional United States tariffs hit Brazilian footwear, investing instead in the parts of the business it controls. WWD reports Pierre Cardin is opening a dual-purpose Manhattan site in SoHo, shoppable to the public and a shop window for its United States licensing business. Per WWD, Smythson is hungry for more United States sites after its Madison Avenue return, a year into private equity ownership. And finally, WWD reports Alo opened a Hong Kong sanctuary store with a drone show and Jisoo, launching a Berlin flagship at the same time.