Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

McQueen, Calvin Klein Part With Creative Directors

WWD reports Alexander McQueen and Calvin Klein announced creative-director exits on the same day, putting design turnover back in front of the trade.

Calvin Klein disclosed the departure of designer Veronica Leoni on Thursday, and shortly afterward McQueen said it was parting ways with its creative director Seán McGirr, according to WWD. Drapers and modaes.com also carried the departures. Both exits land after what the reporting calls fashion's "great creative reset," raising near-term questions about collection calendars and brand continuity at Kering-owned McQueen and PVH-owned Calvin Klein. Neither company has named a successor in the reporting.

02

Looting Hits French Retailers as Unrest Spreads

WWD reports looting and vandalism at retail sites across French cities, moving store security and closure decisions onto operators' immediate agenda.

via WWD↗
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Looting and vandalism affected retailers in major French cities, with Louis Vuitton, Celine, Decathlon and Apple among the brands targeted, according to WWD. The scale of losses has not been confirmed. For French retail operators, the reported incidents put store security, insurance claims and closure days in play in the short term.

03

Destruction Ban Pushes Unsold Luxury Into Off-Price

Bloomberg reports discounted luxury stock surfacing on Yoox at roughly half brand-site prices, exposing an inventory problem the destruction ban made visible.

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Shoppers on Yoox could buy suede Brunello Cucinelli sneakers for €617 ($693) earlier this month, around half the price on the brand's own website, per Bloomberg; a beige Gucci mini-skirt was also listed at a reduced price. Bloomberg frames the listings as a consequence of the ban on destroying unsold goods, which routes excess stock into visible off-price channels instead. For houses carrying excess inventory, that is a pricing-architecture question as much as a disposal one.

04

Hermès Opens Suburban Store in Wilmette, Illinois

The Wall Street Journal reports Hermès opened in an open-air Chicago-area mall, testing whether affluent suburbs can carry full-price luxury.

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The Wilmette store opened in August in an open-air mall across from a CVS pharmacy and down the road from a Jewel-Osco supermarket, according to The Wall Street Journal, which describes a Spanish revival-style facade and dragonfly motifs. The Journal reports luxury neighbors including Oscar de la Renta at the same location. The opening tests whether affluent American suburbs can support full-price luxury away from established flagship corridors.

Also moving today

Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Monday, October nineteenth, and we begin with WWD on two creative director exits landing in the same afternoon. Fashion's turnover at the top moved again on Thursday, following our earlier report on Anthony Vaccarello's departure from Saint Laurent. WWD reports that Calvin Klein confirmed the exit of Veronica Leoni, and that shortly after, McQueen said it was parting ways with creative director Seán McGirr after three years. Per that account, the McQueen change lands amid a substantial retrenchment at the house, involving layoffs and a downsized retail network. Both Kering and PVH say new creative leadership will be named soon. Two houses now plan collection calendars without a designer at the top, which puts brand continuity in play through the next show cycle. The same reporting has Kering chief executive Luca de Meo pointing to the cost of McQueen's expansion, with one hundred thirty-five stores opened worldwide and sneakers at one point about eighty percent of revenue. Modaes reports Kering's first-half revenue down three percent, at seven point two two billion euros, with net income more than halved to two hundred forty-four million. Industry reaction leans toward reading this as the expected pattern rather than a shock, with short creative tenures now treated as the norm. Separately, WWD reports that looting and vandalism have hit retailers across France, with Louis Vuitton, Celine, Decathlon and Apple among the brands targeted. That report puts no figure on the losses. Store security, insurance cover and closure days move onto the immediate agenda for anyone running French doors. A recurring thread among observers is that looted luxury and electronics stock resurfaces quickly on peer-to-peer resale, which some flag as an early signal of grey-market and authentication exposure. Bloomberg argues that the ban on destroying unsold goods is exposing an inventory problem luxury has kept quiet. The piece points to Yoox earlier this month, where suede Brunello Cucinelli sneakers ran at six hundred seventeen euros, around half the price on the brand's own site, and a beige Gucci mini-skirt at eight hundred euros, close to fifty percent off. That read makes this a pricing architecture question for any house carrying excess stock. Discussion is thin, but one strand in the trade frames destruction as a supply valve that protected exclusivity, and suggests removing it pushes houses toward the discount and resale channels they have worked to keep at arm's length. The Wall Street Journal reads Hermès's newest American store as a test of the suburbs. Per that reporting, the Wilmette location opened in August with a Spanish revival facade and dragonfly motifs, built in an open-air mall across from a CVS pharmacy and down the road from a Jewel-Osco supermarket, with Oscar de la Renta and Thom Browne opening stores nearby. The argument is that affluent American suburbs can carry full-price luxury away from the flagship corridors, which would reset how houses weigh real estate. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. WWD reports Chanel has unveiled the hoarding for its first stand-alone Wuhan store, at SKP, sited, per posts on the social commerce platform Xiaohongshu, between Louis Vuitton and Cartier. LVMH said sales grew one percent in the three months to the end of September, with fashion and leather goods down five percent against a forecast slip of one and a half percent, per Mail Online. Morningstar reports peers including Kering fell in sympathy. And finally, Drapers argues that with Frasers Group, JD Sports Fashion, Debenhams Group and Next buying up smaller or struggling chains, the risk is a cookie-cutter high street offer.