Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

Armani said to open stake talks with LVMH, L'Oréal

Retail Gazette reports Armani is preparing to discuss a minority stake sale with LVMH, L'Oréal and EssilorLuxottica — outside capital in one of the last large independent Italian luxury houses.

Armani is preparing to begin talks over the sale of a minority stake in the luxury fashion house, according to Retail Gazette. The report says the Italian group is expected to meet LVMH, L'Oréal and EssilorLuxottica in the coming weeks. The three named companies span fashion, beauty and eyewear — the categories Armani currently books through licensing partners. None of the parties has confirmed the meetings, and no terms have been reported.

02

Shein reports lower profit in first results as public company

Drapers reports Shein's second-quarter profit and sales both fell in its first trading update since listing, giving the sector an audited read on ultra-fast-fashion margins.

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Shein has reported falling profits and declining sales for the second quarter, per Drapers — its first trading update as a publicly listed company. The disclosure is the sector's first audited look at ultra-fast-fashion margins, a figure buyers and competitors have previously estimated. Drapers' summary does not specify the scale of the decline or the drivers behind it.

03

Selfridges posts £13m pre-tax profit for fiscal 2025

WWD reports the London department store swung from a near-£16m loss to a £13m pre-tax profit as sales rose, the first full-year marker of its ownership and strategy change.

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Selfridges posted a pre-tax profit of £13 million in fiscal 2025, compared with a loss of nearly £16 million the previous year, according to WWD and Drapers. Sales also climbed over the period. The results are the first full-year financial marker since the ownership change and the strategy set by chief executive Andrew Maeder. Department stores remain a format under commercial pressure across the UK market.

04

Prada's Lorenzo Bertelli takes on Versace turnaround

The Observer reports Prada heir Lorenzo Bertelli is leading the revival of loss-making Versace, with Pieter Mulier taking creative direction — a public test of the group's multi-brand capability.

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Lorenzo Bertelli, the former rally driver expected to inherit the Prada empire, is leading the effort to revive Versace after years of losses, according to the Observer. Pieter Mulier is taking over creative direction of the house. The assignment places Prada's designated successor in charge of an acquired, loss-making brand while its creative leadership changes. The Observer frames the outcome as a test of the group's ability to run multiple brands.

Also moving today

  • Oxford Street pedestrianisation date confirmed Drapers
  • CFDA turns to Hildy Kuryk as interim chief Luxury Daily
  • Revolve Group Takes Minority Stake in 437, Toronto-based Activewear Brand WWD
  • Asos launches adaptive range Drapers
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Wednesday, September thirtieth, and we begin with Retail Gazette on Armani opening talks over a stake in the house. Retail Gazette reports that Armani will meet LVMH, L'Oréal and EssilorLuxottica in the coming weeks over the sale of a minority stake, following our earlier coverage of the house's succession. Per that account, Giorgio Armani's will directs that an initial fifteen per cent be sold twelve to eighteen months after his death, with a larger holding or a listing to follow, and it names those three as preferred buyers. That would put outside capital into one of the last large independent Italian luxury houses. Chief executive Giuseppe Marsocci said at Sunday's Milan show that the stake need not go to a single investor, and that no decision has been made. The same reporting cites the Financial Times on one option discussed informally, a joint purchase by all three. It puts analyst valuations at five to seven billion euros, and has Prada ruling itself out. Industry reaction leans toward reading the multi-investor route as a way of keeping any one conglomerate from a controlling voice, and notes the named candidates are already Armani's partners in beauty and eyewear. Also today, Shein. Drapers reports that profits plunged and sales fell in the second quarter, the company's first trading update as a public company. That report does not put figures to the fall. It is the sector's first public read on ultra-fast-fashion margins, a number competitors and buyers have until now only estimated. Commentary leans toward reading the drop as a structural test of fast-fashion unit economics rather than one weak quarter, with recurring threads pairing it with the valuation compression since the company's private peak and with tariff exposure. Separately, Selfridges swung to a pre-tax profit of thirteen million pounds in fiscal twenty twenty-five, against a loss of nearly sixteen million the year before. That is WWD's account, which also has sales and footfall climbing under chief executive André Maeder's strategy. Drapers puts operating profit up eighty-eight per cent to seventy-nine point seven million pounds for the fifty-two weeks to the third of January, and reports Maeder calling for the restoration of tax-free shopping to unlock growth. For a flagship London department store in a format under pressure across the market, it is the first full-year financial marker of the ownership and strategy change. Commentary recurrently pairs the swing with that policy ask, framing the recovery as achieved without an international-spend tailwind, and reads the improvement as store-led while online softened. Staying with Italy, the Observer argues that Versace is the hard assignment on Lorenzo Bertelli's path to the Prada empire. Per that piece, Bertelli, thirty-eight, runs the house as executive chairman after Prada bought it from Capri Holdings in December for one point two five billion euros, and Versace posted a fifty-four million dollar operating loss in fiscal twenty twenty-five on revenue down twenty per cent to eight hundred twenty-one million. Prada executives expect another operating loss this year. That read frames the job as a public test of the group's multi-brand capability, with Pieter Mulier installed as chief creative officer on the first of July, the store network shrinking and the brand pulled back from markdowns. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Drapers reports parts of London's Oxford Street will be pedestrianised from the twenty-sixth of October, confirmed by mayor Sadiq Khan. Luxury Daily reports the CFDA has named former Vogue communications director Hildy Kuryk interim chief executive while it searches for a permanent successor to Steven Kolb, whose resignation we reported last week. WWD reports Revolve Group has taken a minority stake in 437, the Toronto activewear brand making pieces for Pilates, yoga, hot sculpt and strength training. One last headline, Asos has launched its first adaptive range, fifty-one pieces across womenswear, menswear and curve, per Drapers.