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Welcome in, today is Wednesday, September thirtieth, and we begin with Retail Gazette on Armani opening talks over a stake in the house.
Retail Gazette reports that Armani will meet LVMH, L'Oréal and EssilorLuxottica in the coming weeks over the sale of a minority stake, following our earlier coverage of the house's succession. Per that account, Giorgio Armani's will directs that an initial fifteen per cent be sold twelve to eighteen months after his death, with a larger holding or a listing to follow, and it names those three as preferred buyers. That would put outside capital into one of the last large independent Italian luxury houses. Chief executive Giuseppe Marsocci said at Sunday's Milan show that the stake need not go to a single investor, and that no decision has been made. The same reporting cites the Financial Times on one option discussed informally, a joint purchase by all three. It puts analyst valuations at five to seven billion euros, and has Prada ruling itself out. Industry reaction leans toward reading the multi-investor route as a way of keeping any one conglomerate from a controlling voice, and notes the named candidates are already Armani's partners in beauty and eyewear.
Also today, Shein. Drapers reports that profits plunged and sales fell in the second quarter, the company's first trading update as a public company. That report does not put figures to the fall. It is the sector's first public read on ultra-fast-fashion margins, a number competitors and buyers have until now only estimated. Commentary leans toward reading the drop as a structural test of fast-fashion unit economics rather than one weak quarter, with recurring threads pairing it with the valuation compression since the company's private peak and with tariff exposure.
Separately, Selfridges swung to a pre-tax profit of thirteen million pounds in fiscal twenty twenty-five, against a loss of nearly sixteen million the year before. That is WWD's account, which also has sales and footfall climbing under chief executive André Maeder's strategy. Drapers puts operating profit up eighty-eight per cent to seventy-nine point seven million pounds for the fifty-two weeks to the third of January, and reports Maeder calling for the restoration of tax-free shopping to unlock growth. For a flagship London department store in a format under pressure across the market, it is the first full-year financial marker of the ownership and strategy change. Commentary recurrently pairs the swing with that policy ask, framing the recovery as achieved without an international-spend tailwind, and reads the improvement as store-led while online softened.
Staying with Italy, the Observer argues that Versace is the hard assignment on Lorenzo Bertelli's path to the Prada empire. Per that piece, Bertelli, thirty-eight, runs the house as executive chairman after Prada bought it from Capri Holdings in December for one point two five billion euros, and Versace posted a fifty-four million dollar operating loss in fiscal twenty twenty-five on revenue down twenty per cent to eight hundred twenty-one million. Prada executives expect another operating loss this year. That read frames the job as a public test of the group's multi-brand capability, with Pieter Mulier installed as chief creative officer on the first of July, the store network shrinking and the brand pulled back from markdowns.
Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Drapers reports parts of London's Oxford Street will be pedestrianised from the twenty-sixth of October, confirmed by mayor Sadiq Khan. Luxury Daily reports the CFDA has named former Vogue communications director Hildy Kuryk interim chief executive while it searches for a permanent successor to Steven Kolb, whose resignation we reported last week. WWD reports Revolve Group has taken a minority stake in 437, the Toronto activewear brand making pieces for Pilates, yoga, hot sculpt and strength training. One last headline, Asos has launched its first adaptive range, fifty-one pieces across womenswear, menswear and curve, per Drapers.