Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's stories

01

CFDA chief executive Steven Kolb resigns after NYFW incident

Drapers reports the head of the body that runs New York Fashion Week stepped down following an altercation with animal rights activists, putting show governance in play.

Steven Kolb has stepped down as chief executive of the Council of Fashion Designers of America following an altercation with animal rights activists during New York Fashion Week, according to Drapers. The council organises the New York shows, so the change places leadership of the week's calendar and its security arrangements with a successor yet to be named. Drapers does not report a replacement or a timeline for one. The circumstances of the altercation, beyond the account reported by Drapers, remain unconfirmed.

02

Glenn Martens to exit Diesel after September show

Drapers reports the creative director leaves following his SS27 catwalk show in Milan on 22 September, opening another top design seat at an Italian house.

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Glenn Martens will leave his role as creative director of Diesel after presenting his spring/summer 2027 collection in Milan on 22 September, per Drapers. The departure adds another open creative directorship at an Italian brand, extending a run of designer changes across the upper end of the market over the past two years. Drapers does not report a successor or Martens's next position.

03

JD Sports signs Grupo Axo to open 140 Mexican stores

WWD and Drapers report a franchise partnership under which Axo operates JD's Mexican stores and e-commerce — scale without owned-estate capital.

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JD Sports has agreed a franchise partnership with Grupo Axo covering 140 stores in Mexico, according to WWD and Drapers. Under the terms reported, Axo will operate the JD stores and the brand's Mexican e-commerce rather than JD running an owned estate. The structure gives the chain Latin American footprint without the capital commitment of direct operation, a route competitors could follow in the region. Neither outlet reports the deal's financial terms or an opening schedule.

04

Bloomberg: LVMH shares cheap on weakening luxury demand

Bloomberg reports investors have pulled back from the world's largest luxury group, a read on where the market prices sector demand.

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Investors have been stepping back from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and Bloomberg attributes the discount on its shares to reasons tied to the sector's demand outlook rather than to a mispricing. The piece contrasts that investor retreat with the group's continued brand activity, including a Louis Vuitton hotel opened in London earlier this year to mark 130 years of the monogram. Because LVMH is the sector's largest group, its valuation sets the benchmark peers are measured against. Bloomberg's assessment is an analytical read, not a company statement.

Also moving today

  • Retailers welcome Conservatives’ vow to restore tax-free shopping Drapers
  • Mothercare warns on future as Middle East partner plans store closures Drapers
  • Shuffle Board: Nike Adds LVMH Exec; Lycra Names CEO WWD
  • Shein, Temu shoppers keep adding to cart despite environmental concerns Australian Broadcasting Corporation
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Tuesday, September twenty second, and we begin with Drapers reporting a leadership change at the body that runs New York Fashion Week. Drapers reports that Steven Kolb has stepped down as chief executive of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, following an altercation with animal rights activists during New York Fashion Week. We have not seen that account matched elsewhere. The council runs the city's fashion week, so the vacancy sits with the body that sets show scheduling and security policy going into the next calendar. No successor is named in that reporting. Industry reaction splits sharply on where protest ends and disruption begins, and a recurring counter thread holds that the departure could slow animal welfare progress inside fashion rather than speed it, given the outgoing leadership's association with anti fur positions. Also today, Glenn Martens is leaving Diesel. Drapers reports the creative director exits after his final spring summer twenty twenty seven catwalk show in Milan on the twenty second of September. Reaction in the trade leans toward reading that exit as the loss of a hard won repositioning rather than a routine designer move, with the silence on succession the open question for the label. It adds another open creative seat at an Italian house, extending the run of designer changes that has reset much of the top end over the past two years. Separately, JD Sports is entering Mexico without building the estate itself. WWD reports a franchise partnership with Grupo Axo covering one hundred and forty stores, with Axo operating both the shops and JD's e-commerce in the market. Drapers has the deal including a dedicated Mexican website. That is a template rivals can copy for Latin American scale without the capital of an owned chain. Spanish language trade commentary frames it less as a single market entry than as a step up in competition for Mexican sneaker and sportswear shoppers, and notes the store build out is staged from twenty twenty seven rather than immediate. Now to luxury valuations. Bloomberg makes the case that LVMH shares are cheap for a reason. That analysis sets the group's London pop up hotel, marking one hundred and thirty years of the Louis Vuitton monogram, against investors moving the other way, with the stock at its lowest since twenty twenty. It follows our earlier report on that near six year low and the wider European luxury sell off. The argument reaches past one stock, because the sector's largest group sets the valuation floor peers get measured against. A recurring counterpoint holds that top end demand for watches, spirits and collectibles still looks firm, which would make the problem conglomerate and China specific rather than sector wide. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Retailers have welcomed the Conservatives' pledge to restore tax free shopping and VAT refunds for overseas visitors, per Drapers, though that is an opposition vow, not policy. Mothercare has warned on its future in an update to its financial outlook, Drapers reports, after its Middle East franchise partner set plans to close stores in twenty twenty seven. WWD's executive moves roundup has Nike adding an LVMH executive and Lycra naming a chief executive, with Target hiring Hilton's global marketing chief Mark Weinstein. And finally, a study in the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing finds millennials' stated ethical concern rarely changes what they buy on Shein and Temu, with affordability, promotions and social media trends the drivers, the ABC reports.