Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 5:05

The day's stories

01

China Presses France Over Ultra-Fast-Fashion Law

Beijing has asked France to halt a newly applied law aimed at ultra-fast-fashion sellers, turning a domestic retail rule into a bilateral trade matter.

via WWD

China is calling on France to stop implementing a recently enacted law targeting ultra-fast-fashion companies including Shein and Temu, according to WWD. WWD reports the comments from Beijing came days after France began applying the measure, which is described as restricting advertising and imposing environmental levies on ultra-fast-fashion sellers. The objection moves the rule beyond French retail policy and into a trade dispute between the two governments. How it resolves would be an early indication of how far EU markets can regulate the marketing side of low-price online retail.

02

Vietnam Forced-Labor Rules Raise Sourcing Compliance Stakes

Hanoi's new supply-chain tracing requirements, reported as a response to U.S. Section 301 tariffs, would add documentation obligations for brands sourcing through Vietnam.

via WWD
Full story

Vietnam has introduced supply-chain tracing requirements tied to forced labor that raise compliance stakes for companies sourcing through the country, according to WWD. WWD reports the measures were forged in response to Washington's Section 301 tariffs. The requirements would push additional documentation costs onto brands with Vietnamese supply chains. The scope and enforcement timeline are not yet confirmed.

03

Nike CEO Tells Shareholders Turnaround Will Take Years

Elliott Hill said progress will not be linear and framed Nike's rebuild on a decade horizon, setting the window partners will judge it against.

via WWD
Full story

Nike chief executive Elliott Hill addressed scepticism over the company's turnaround strategy at Tuesday's annual shareholders' meeting, per WWD. Hill said progress would not "be a straight line" and that the team is building "for the next decade," according to the report. The framing sets the expectation window that wholesale partners and the wider sportswear trade will measure the recovery against.

04

H&M Names Aneta Pokucinska U.S. Managing Director

H&M appointed a new U.S. leader and named Elie Saab as its next designer collaboration, putting American leadership and brand elevation on the same watch list.

via WWD
Full story

H&M has named Aneta Pokucinska managing director and general manager, U.S., according to WWD. The company also said Elie Saab will be its next designer collaboration, per the same report. The two announcements place H&M's U.S. leadership and its brand-elevation calendar in view at once for anyone tracking the group's positioning.

Also moving today

  • Footfall remains subdued in August Drapers
  • Sabato de Sarno takes on new role Drapers
  • Outdoor brands lead fashion circularity ranking: Kearney Luxury Daily
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Wednesday, September ninth, and we begin in Beijing, where WWD reports China is demanding France halt its new law on ultra-fast fashion. China's Commerce Ministry has called on France to immediately stop applying the measure, days after it took effect. Spokeswoman Huang Ling told a news conference Thursday the law harms Chinese businesses and French consumers, described it as a discriminatory step taken under the guise of environmental protection, and said Beijing suspects it breaches World Trade Organization rules. She warned China would take necessary measures if France goes its own way. Per that account, the law penalizes each item by between twenty-five cents and twelve euros, a range that rises to two euros twenty and twenty euros per item in twenty thirty, and its definition of ultra-fast fashion spares European sellers such as Zara and H and M. That lifts a domestic French retail rule into a bilateral trade dispute, and makes it an early test of how far European markets can regulate low-price online retail. Industry reaction leans toward reading the measure more broadly than its named targets: because the fee is assessed per product and keyed to how fast a seller adds new references, some argue assortment velocity becomes a cost variable at the border. Also today, sourcing. Writing in WWD's Sourcing Journal, Jasmin Malik Chua argues Vietnam's new forced-labor import ban could reshape sourcing through the country. The argument is that Hanoi's supply-chain tracing requirements were forged in response to Washington's Section three-oh-one tariffs, and that they raise compliance stakes for any company sourcing through Vietnam. That read is the author's, and the scope and enforcement timeline are not yet confirmed. The cost of that documentation would sit with brands, which is why the detail matters before the next sourcing cycle. Compliance-side observers add a note of scepticism. Several flag that the import prohibition did not appear in the publicly circulated consultation drafts and surfaced only in the final decree, which some read as a sign the measure tracks the U.S. tariff proceeding more than domestic policy, and a recurring question in that camp is how vigorously the tracing will be enforced. Separately, Nike. Chief executive Elliott Hill used Tuesday's annual shareholders' meeting to answer scepticism about the turnaround, telling investors progress will not, in his words, be a straight line, and that the team is building for the next decade, according to WWD. That is the expectation window wholesale partners and the wider sportswear trade will judge the company against. Industry reaction converges on an operational explanation rather than a brand controversy: the earlier retreat from wholesale accounts in favour of direct-to-consumer is widely framed as having handed shelf space and mindshare to challenger running brands, with the open question being whether re-investing in retail partnerships can win that ground back. A quieter consumer-side signal in the same reaction is eroding perceived quality for price, with some longtime buyers described as switching on materials and comfort rather than fashion. To H and M. The retailer has named Aneta Pokucinska managing director and general manager for the United States, WWD reports. The same announcement said Elie Saab will be its next designer collaboration. Two disclosures in one release put the group's American leadership and its brand-elevation calendar on the same watch list for anyone tracking positioning, though that reporting does not detail a start date or when the collaboration arrives. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Total UK footfall fell one point seven percent year on year in August, an improvement on July's two point one percent decline, according to British Retail Consortium figures reported by Drapers. Drapers also reports former Gucci creative director Sabato de Sarno has taken over the creative helm of Chinese luxury brand Icicle. And finally, outdoor brands lead Kearney's sixth annual fashion circularity index, which scores two hundred forty-one brands across nine categories, from sustainable design materials to secondhand and rental models, per Luxury Daily.