Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 5:17

The day's stories

01

Bloomberg: China luxury softness shifts growth to US

Bloomberg reports Chinese luxury demand has not rebounded as hoped, leaving US shoppers to carry growth — a regional exposure question for assortment and store plans.

Bloomberg reports that hopes of a Chinese luxury recovery, raised a year ago by traffic at The Louis, Louis Vuitton's ship-shaped Shanghai emporium, have not been borne out. According to the report, softness in Chinese demand shifts more of the sector's growth burden onto US spending. For brands, the account frames a regional exposure question ahead of decisions on assortment and store investment. Bloomberg does not indicate when demand in the market is expected to recover.

02

Shein moves toward IPO as rivals study its model

WWD and other outlets trace Shein's rise to a public listing, which would put the ultra-fast-fashion operator's economics into disclosed form for competitors and buyers.

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WWD, Euronews English and RTE.ie report on Shein's ascent and its move toward a public market listing. A listing would place the ultra-fast-fashion company's economics into disclosed form, giving competitors and buyers a benchmark for how the model scaled. WWD frames the coverage as lessons the fashion sector has drawn from the company's trajectory. Terms and timing of the listing are not detailed in the reports.

03

France levies Shein and Temu; Beijing objects

France has begun imposing levies under its anti-ultra-fast-fashion law, per IBTimes UK, and China's stated objection signals possible trade friction for sellers into that market.

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International Business Times UK reports France has begun imposing new levies on Shein and Temu under its recently implemented anti-ultra-fast-fashion law, which Paris frames as pricing the environmental cost of the category. The report describes China as objecting to the measure. If the dispute escalates, it would be the first national levy of its kind to draw a stated trade response. The report does not specify the levy amounts or any Chinese countermeasures.

04

Harvey Nichols suppliers owed £270m, filings show

Drapers reports brands owed money before the Frasers Group acquisition may recover under 15p in the pound, per documents filed at Companies House.

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Drapers reports that documents filed at Companies House on 3 September show Harvey Nichols suppliers are owed £270m. According to those filings, brands owed payment before the retailer's acquisition by Frasers Group are expected to recover less than 15p in the pound. The figure gives a concrete measure of wholesale credit exposure in department-store trading. Drapers does not report a timetable for any distribution to creditors.

Also moving today

  • Affordable Luxury Is Gaining Ground in Department Stores WWD
  • What to Watch: Hermès May Be a Bellwether for China's Luxury Rebound Yahoo! Finance
  • Very Group abandons auction as bidders fail to hit £2bn asking price Drapers
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Monday, September seventh, and we begin with Bloomberg Business on China's luxury market, and who is now being asked to carry the growth. Bloomberg Business argues the Chinese recovery brands were promised has not arrived, and that the burden is landing on American shoppers instead. The account opens at The Louis, the ship shaped Louis Vuitton emporium in Shanghai, where buyers were stocking up on luggage a year ago and hopes of a rebound ran high. The building is still a tourist draw, on that telling. The recovery it was meant to signal is not. Following our earlier reports on double digit July declines at the largest labels in China, and on Beijing's push to tax offshore assets, that read reframes the softness as a standing regional exposure question rather than a quarter to wait out. Assortment and store investment weighted to China now lean harder on United States demand. Industry reaction leans toward reading the slump as structural rather than cyclical, with a recurring view that years of price increases outran gains in quality and craft, and that fast growing domestic Chinese jewellery and gold players are competing for the same wallet. Also today, a fuller read on what the Shein listing taught the trade. RTE argues the valuation gap is a bet on future growth rather than a verdict on current trading. The retailer is far bigger than it was at its twenty twenty two private peak, with revenue above forty one point eight billion dollars last year and profit above two billion, against roughly twenty seven billion in sales then. What changed is the slope. Growth ran near nineteen and twenty one percent in the two prior years, then eight percent last year, on that account, which also puts first quarter United States sales just above two billion dollars, down from nearly two point four billion, and the country's share of the total below twenty three percent. Duty exemptions are the mechanism, with Europe's three euro per item charge possibly rising to five. Industry reaction leans toward reading the pivot to a third party marketplace as an admission the ultra cheap engine has stalled. Separately, Beijing has put a threat behind its objection to France's ultra fast fashion levy. The International Business Times UK reports Commerce Ministry spokeswoman Huang Ling stated China's firm opposition to what she called a clearly discriminatory, trade restrictive measure, urged France to halt implementation immediately, and said China would take necessary measures to safeguard its enterprises, without specifying what those would be. That follows our earlier report on the per item charges now in force. A source at the French foreign trade office told European media the law is not discriminatory, said China is entitled to take technical objections to the World Trade Organization, and described the warning as economic coercion that for now remains a threat. For anyone shipping into France, escalation risk now sits alongside the landed cost. Also today, a number on what Harvey Nichols suppliers stand to lose. Drapers reports that brands owed payment before the chain's acquisition by Frasers Group are expected to recover less than fifteen pence in the pound, per documents filed at Companies House on the third of September, with the sum owed put at two hundred seventy million pounds. Following our earlier reports on the Frasers takeover, and on brands tightening payment terms in response, that puts a recovery rate on wholesale exposure the trade had been discussing as a risk rather than a figure. Industry reaction leans toward scrutiny of the pre pack mechanism itself, with a recurring framing that the buyer keeps the trading business while unsecured suppliers absorb the shortfall, and some treating it as an open question whether legacy debts get honoured voluntarily. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Contemporary and premium tiers now dominate the department store segment map, the International Association of Department Stores reports, per WWD. Yahoo Finance argues the issue at Hermès is investor expectation rather than the business, with the shares down about thirty two percent from their fifty two week high, to around one thousand five hundred seventy euros. And finally, Carlyle is said to have abandoned the sale of The Very Group after bidders were unable to meet its two billion pound asking price, Drapers reports.