Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
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The day's five

01

EU ban on destroying unsold apparel takes effect

The EU ban on destroying unsold clothing, footwear and accessories came into force July 19, which reports say raises inventory carrying costs for luxury groups.

Retail Gazette, China Daily and the Financial Times report that an EU ban on the destruction of unsold clothing, accessories and footwear took effect on July 19. According to those reports, large companies including LVMH, Prada, Chanel and Zara owner Inditex face higher costs of holding inventory as a result. The reported change puts markdown, donation and resale channels on the near-term agenda for luxury inventory planners.

02

USTR imposes duties on 60 economies over forced labor

WWD and The Business of Fashion report the USTR is taking "final action" to apply double-digit tariffs to roughly 60 economies over forced-labor enforcement, a direct input to landed costs.

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According to WWD and The Business of Fashion, the administration is taking what it describes as "final action" to impose new tariffs on 60 global economies. The reports attribute the measure to those economies' failures to impose and enforce bans on imports made with forced labor, with duties described as double-digit. The scope reported would place landed-cost calculations and supplier-vetting procedures back at the center of sourcing decisions.

03

Kering names Romain Spitzer CEO of Bottega Veneta

Kering has appointed Romain Spitzer to lead Bottega Veneta from September 1, one of two chief executive changes reported this week alongside Bluesign.

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WWD, Yahoo! Finance and The Business of Fashion report that Kering has appointed Romain Spitzer as chief executive of Bottega Veneta, effective September 1, with a seat on the group's executive committee. He will be based in Milan, per those reports. The same roundup records a new chief executive at the certification body Bluesign, marking leadership turnover on both the brand and certification sides of the industry.

04

Frasers raises Hugo Boss stake above 30 percent

Mike Ashley's Frasers has crossed the 30 percent threshold in Hugo Boss, which reports say triggers a mandatory takeover bid under German rules.

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The Business of Fashion and Drapers report that Frasers has increased its stake in Hugo Boss to more than 30 percent. Having crossed that threshold, Frasers is now required to make a mandatory takeover bid under German rules, according to those reports. The move raises questions about the future ownership structure of a listed premium brand; the terms and timing of any bid were not detailed in the reports.

05

Zegna reports 17 percent sales increase

Zegna's sales rose 17 percent with acceleration at Thom Browne and Tom Ford, per reports — a counterpoint to a uniformly weak read on luxury demand.

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The Business of Fashion and WWD report that sales at the Italian group Zegna rose 17 percent. According to those reports, sales also accelerated at the group's Thom Browne and Tom Ford labels. The figures are described as coming despite broader luxury headwinds, offering one data point against a uniformly weak read on current demand.

Also moving today

Read the transcript
Welcome back, today is Friday, July twenty-fourth, and we begin in the European Union, where the ban on destroying unsold fashion stock is now in force. As of July nineteenth, large companies, LVMH, Prada, Chanel and Zara owner Inditex among them, can no longer incinerate or landfill unsold clothing, accessories or footwear in the European Union, according to the Financial Times and Retail Gazette. Customer returns are covered too. The rules sit under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, approved in two thousand twenty-four, and steer excess stock into discounts, secondary markets, donation or repair. That leaves brands choosing between higher carrying costs, wider controlled discount channels, or simply producing less. Destruction survives only in narrow cases, per the reporting: unsafe, counterfeit or irreparably damaged goods, with evidence and annual reporting required. The European Commission estimates four to nine percent of textile products placed on the European market are destroyed before use. Industry reaction leans toward planning and forecasting quality becoming the competitive edge, with destruction disclosures due from February two thousand twenty-seven. The Financial Times also reports a Hong Kong court case describing past destruction of unsold Chanel product. Chanel told the paper those figures do not reflect its current global practices. Also today, the Office of the United States Trade Representative is taking what it calls final action to impose new tariffs on sixty global economies over their failure to enact and enforce bans on imports made with forced labor, WWD reports. The duties run into double digits. The Business of Fashion frames the move as the White House's latest effort to restore a near-global tariff after the Supreme Court struck down the reciprocal duties in February. For sourcing teams, that puts landed cost and supplier vetting back at the center of the decision, with exposure now tracking a country's enforcement record rather than a single product line. Separately, Kering has named Romain Spitzer chief executive of Bottega Veneta, effective September first, per WWD. He joins the group's executive committee, based in Milan, reporting to Kering chief executive Luca de Meo, and arrives after a lengthy search, according to The Business of Fashion. Spitzer was most recently chief executive of the fragrance group at LVMH Beauty, with earlier roles at Guerlain, Yves Saint Laurent Parfums and Parfums Christian Dior. Kering points him at retail experience and client relationships. Some in the trade read the hire as a test of whether a house identity scales across categories without dilution. On the certification side, Bluesign has appointed Hanane Taidi, formerly director general of the TIC Council, as chief executive. Staying with ownership, a long stake-building exercise has become a formal offer process. Frasers Group has moved above thirty percent of Hugo Boss, and under German takeover law that obliges Mike Ashley's group to make a mandatory offer for all remaining shares, according to Drapers and The Business of Fashion. Drapers reports the threshold was crossed as the takeover bid progresses. That matters to the trade because it converts an accumulated position into a public process around the ownership structure of a listed premium brand. The reports do not set out Frasers' intentions beyond the offer it is now required to make. There is a counterweight to the gloomier read on demand. Ermenegildo Zegna Group posted a seventeen percent sales increase in the second quarter, with sales also accelerating at Thom Browne and Tom Ford, according to The Business of Fashion and WWD. The group's executive chairman, speaking to WWD, pointed to what he described as untapped opportunity ahead. Some observers read the acceleration as evidence the sector is sorting on fundamentals rather than staging a cyclical recovery, with coherent product architecture outpacing hype. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Italian police last week raided offices including Bulgari and Chanel on suspicion of subcontractors being used to hire Chinese workers, per The Business of Fashion. The allegations are unproven, and company responses are not yet reported. Richemont opened its new fiscal year with growth across all regions, jewelry houses up twenty-four percent and watchmakers improving sequentially at eight percent, Luxury Daily reports. Burberry grew across every product range for the first time in three years, though shares fell as investors turned to its profitability plans, according to The Business of Fashion. And finally, Nike plans to cut the number of its online distributors in China, a marketplace clean-up the company frames against continued gains by domestic rivals, per The Business of Fashion.