Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 4:48

The day's stories

01

Kering reports steady third quarter amid creative transitions

Kering's quarterly update lands as Gucci and Balenciaga creative changes remain unresolved — the first full-year read on CEO Luca de Meo's turnaround.

Kering reported third-quarter results that FashionNetwork.com describes as stabilising the business, one year after Luca de Meo took up the chief executive post. The update arrived during what the outlet characterises as a turbulent stretch for the group, with speculation over Balenciaga's creative direction still unsettled, according to the same report. WWD and Finimize also covered the release. The results are the first full-year checkpoint on de Meo's turnaround, and whether revenue holds while the Gucci and Balenciaga creative transitions play out remains to be seen.

02

CAC 40 closes at 7,811.26 after Hermès update

Paris equities fell as a Hermès third-quarter update, French 10-year yields above 5% and renewed doubts over AI spending combined, per bbntimes.com.

Full story

The CAC 40 closed at 7,811.26, giving back the prior day's rebound and more, according to bbntimes.com. The outlet attributes the decline to a third-quarter update from Hermès it describes as disappointing, a fresh rise in French borrowing costs and renewed questions over AI-related spending. France's 10-year yield climbed above 5% in the same session, per the report. The combination ties luxury demand signals to a higher cost of capital in the sector's home market; the figures come from a single source and have not been independently confirmed here.

03

Alexander McQueen and Seán McGirr part ways

Luxury Daily reports McGirr's three-year run at the Kering-owned house is ending, with a successor to be named soon.

Full story

Alexander McQueen is parting ways with creative director Seán McGirr, according to Luxury Daily and The Star. The Irish designer's tenure at the Kering-owned house ran roughly three years, and new creative leadership is expected to be named soon, per those reports. It is the second creative-director change at McQueen in three years, arriving while Kering reworks leadership across its brands. Neither the successor nor any change to the label's commercial or licensed-category strategy has been announced.

04

Looting of luxury stores in France draws scrutiny

The New York Times reports stores belonging to Dior, Celine and Hermès were looted during weekend riots in France, raising retail security questions.

Full story

The New York Times reports that stores belonging to brands including Dior, Celine and Hermès were looted during riots in France over the weekend. The paper frames the episode as exposing a crack in the sector's presentation of itself, drawing on images and video that circulated from the unrest. The account puts physical-retail security and brand visibility back on the risk register in luxury's largest home market. The scale of damage, any brand responses and the dates referenced in the coverage are not detailed in the material available here.

Also moving today

  • Prada Group Q3 2026 results: Miu Miu slows down nss magazine
  • Hoka and Ugg Parent Deckers Brands Sees Shares Fall After Q2 Sales Miss WWD
  • Castore explores approaches from Chinese sportswear groups Drapers
  • First look: Primark opens first Qatar store Drapers
  • Gap Inc. Gets an AI Assist for Seasonal Hiring WWD
Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Friday, October twenty-third, and we begin with Kering, where FashionNetwork reports a flat third quarter. Kering reported third quarter revenue of three point three four five billion euros, flat on a reported basis and down one percent like for like, according to FashionNetwork. Gucci, still in transition, came in at one point two nine one billion euros, down six percent like for like, dragged by mainland China while North America held. Strip Gucci out and like for like retail rose two percent, that account says, on Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Brioni. Jewellery jumped eleven percent, eyewear four percent. Management cited weaker store traffic but better conversion and basket size, and confirmed its target of an improved recurring operating margin for twenty twenty-six. A Finimize analysis puts the strain in sharper relief. Chief financial officer Armelle Poulou said Kering will raise marketing and client experience spending while shrinking its footprint, with one hundred twenty-five net closures targeted by year end. That piece cites Reuters on Kering dropping its return-to-growth target for twenty twenty-six, and notes the group says Gucci contributes roughly half of group profit, which puts Luca de Meo's margin ambitions on a tighter clock. The US-listed shares fell eleven percent. Industry reaction leans toward reading the decline as traffic-led, with committed buyers holding and the aspirational visitor thinning out. Also today, Paris. Following our earlier report on the CAC Forty's LVMH-driven dip, BBN Times says the index closed Thursday at seven thousand eight hundred eleven point two six, down one point three nine percent. Hermès was the biggest single drag, off four point nine four percent after third quarter revenue growth slowed and missed expectations. That account puts France's ten-year yield at five point zero seven percent, the highest since two thousand two, with the spread over Bunds beyond one hundred seventy basis points. The sector's home market is now repricing the cost of capital at the same time as demand. Market commentary leans toward sector-wide repricing rather than a single soft quarter, with some reading flat Greater China demand as the more telling signal. Separately, Alexander McQueen is without a creative director. Luxury Daily reports Seán McGirr is leaving the Kering-owned house three years after his appointment, with new leadership to be named soon. The Star, carrying AFP, reports McGirr was ousted, ties the exit to a sales collapse over his tenure and to de Meo's restructuring of Kering's smaller labels, and quotes de Meo saying the ambition is a bold new direction. That report cites Bernstein estimates putting annual brand sales below two hundred million euros, from a peak of eight hundred million, and places the exit days after Anthony Vaccarello left Saint Laurent. A second design reset in three years leaves the house unsettled while Kering reworks leadership across its stable. Some observers read it as commercial as much as creative, with a higher sales bar on fewer doors. Now, to the politics of the shop window. Following our earlier report on looting across French retail, a New York Times analysis argues the targeting of Dior, Celine, Hermès and Saint Laurent stores has exposed a crack in luxury's facade. The argument runs that brands used social media, celebrity and spectacle to make themselves ubiquitous, then priced themselves beyond almost everyone, and that the gap now reads as exclusion. That piece quotes Serge Carreira of the Fédération de la Haute Couture saying younger consumers feel shut out. It counts more than three thousand shops affected overall, calls this the third round of physical attacks on luxury in Paris in eight years, and reports Dior, Celine and Hermès did not comment on protective measures. Security and closure days stay on the register for anyone running French doors. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. Prada Group's third quarter organic revenue rose one percent, nss magazine reports, carried by Prada while Miu Miu retail sales fell three percent, its first decline in four years. WWD reports Deckers Brands shares fell after a second quarter sales miss, and says the Hoka and Ugg owner also cut its full-year sales guidance. Drapers reports that Manchester-based Castore is exploring a sale to buyers in the United States and China. No deal is confirmed. Primark has opened its first Qatar store at Doha Festival City, per Drapers, its twenty-first international market and fourth Middle East country. And finally, WWD reports Gap is piloting Bridgette, an AI-enabled virtual career guide the company says will make hiring faster and simpler.