Fashion In Five

The daily five-minute brief on the fashion business.

Daily brief · 5 min
0:00 / 5:18

The day's stories

01

China luxury slump deepens amid offshore wealth tax push

Bloomberg reports China's campaign to tax offshore wealth is damping spending by its richest consumers — the demand backdrop for every China-weighted brand guidance this half.

Global luxury brands face a deepening sales slump in China as the country's campaign to tax offshore wealth sends ripples from stock markets to casino floors, according to Bloomberg, with coverage also carried by FashionNetwork.com and Yahoo Finance. The reporting points to weaker spending among the country's wealthiest consumers and a sales trend at the sector's 25 largest groups. Brands carrying China-weighted guidance into the back half of the year are exposed to that trend, per the reported figures.

02

Shein postpones Hong Kong IPO to September, report says

The South China Morning Post reports Shein delayed taking investor orders at a reduced valuation, putting the sector's largest pending listing back in question.

Full story

Shein has pushed back its market debut after a delay in taking investor orders for its Hong Kong IPO at a reduced valuation, the South China Morning Post reported, per The Business of Fashion. The report places the debut in September. The delay has not been confirmed by the company, and the reduced valuation figure is as reported rather than disclosed.

03

US seeks EU due diligence carveout for American firms

WWD reports Washington's demands could limit audits and information requests deeper in fashion's global supply chains.

via WWD
Full story

Washington is seeking a carveout for American companies from EU due-diligence obligations, WWD reports. According to the report, the demands could limit audits and information requests further down fashion's global supply chains. How far the obligations ultimately reach into supplier tiers that fashion buyers already audit depends on what Washington secures; the outcome is not settled.

04

Marquee Brands to acquire Roots at C$4.10 a share

WWD reports Joe Mimran's JM&A will operate the Canadian retailer post-close, testing operator-led ownership in mid-market apparel.

via WWD
Full story

Marquee Brands has agreed to acquire Canadian omnichannel retailer Roots for C$4.10 a share, WWD reports. Per the report, the business will be operated by JM&A, the company of Club Monaco and Joe Fresh founder Joe Mimran. The arrangement puts an operator-led ownership structure behind a mid-market apparel retailer; terms and timing beyond the per-share price were not detailed in the report.

Also moving today

Read the transcript
Welcome in, today is Friday, August twenty-first, and we begin with a sharp July drop in luxury sales across China, reported by Bloomberg. Sales at the twenty-five biggest luxury labels in China fell more than ten percent in July, according to three research firms surveyed by Bloomberg. That is worse than June, and a reversal from the brisk business seen earlier this year. Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga all recorded double-digit declines, per that reporting, while Hermès swung from gains to declines and growth at Chanel and Prada decelerated significantly. Following our earlier report on LVMH and Kering citing Chinese softness in their second-quarter results, this resets the demand base under every China-weighted guidance carried into the back half. The same account ties the slump to Beijing's campaign to tax offshore assets and tighten cross-border trading, which it reports has damped spending among the country's wealthiest consumers. On that reporting, the MSCI China Index is down eight point nine percent this year, and Macau casinos posted steeper-than-expected revenue declines in June and July. Industry reaction leans toward reading the weakness as brand-specific rather than market-wide, with some in the trade arguing houses that hold one global identity and localise only the experience are still outperforming. A Shanghai consultancy quoted in that reporting says August is the genuine test, with Chinese Valentine's Day falling this week. Also today, the sector's largest pending listing is back without a date. Shein has pushed its market debut to September, The Business of Fashion reports, citing the South China Morning Post, after a delay in taking investor orders for its Hong Kong offering at a reduced valuation. The company has not confirmed the postponement, and we have not seen it matched elsewhere. It follows our earlier reports on the thirty to forty billion dollar range the retailer was understood to be targeting, and on a launch that had been pencilled for August nineteenth. Industry reaction leans toward reading the delay as a verdict on the ultra-fast-fashion model rather than on the calendar, with the cut valuation framed by some as the market pricing in slower growth, higher operating costs and shifting trade rules. Separately, Washington is seeking a carve-out for American companies from the European Union's corporate due-diligence obligations. WWD's Sourcing Journal reported Thursday that the demands could limit audits and information requests deeper in fashion's global supply chains. For brands and buyers, that lands on the supplier tiers they already audit, so how far the EU regime actually reaches turns on what Washington secures. The reporting we have carries the demand itself, not an agreed outcome: no scope and no effective date attached. It is a negotiating position at this stage, not a change to the obligations as they stand. Also today, Roots is changing hands. Marquee Brands has agreed to acquire the Canadian omnichannel retailer for four dollars and ten cents Canadian a share, WWD reported Thursday. The same reporting says the business will be operated by JM and A, the company of Joe Mimran, who founded Club Monaco and Joe Fresh. That is the part worth watching: an owner installing a founder-operator to run a mid-market apparel retailer day to day, with operations sitting outside the acquiring platform, per that reporting. Now, a few more headlines moving the trade today. France's consumer watchdog has fined Boohoo two point seven million dollars over deceptive discounts, The Business of Fashion reports, with nearly half the promotions examined found to be price increases, and the term leather used for synthetic goods. JD Sports cut its profit guidance for the year after like-for-like sales fell three point one percent to three point zero eight billion pounds in the thirteen weeks to the first of August, per Drapers. TJX reported slowdowns at TJ Maxx and Marshalls on Wednesday, according to The Business of Fashion, feeding concern about a pullback in US consumer spending. And finally, America's trading partners are questioning White House allegations of a great transshipment scam. WWD reports China is cast as the nucleus of the issue, an assertion Beijing's Commerce Ministry said Thursday disregards facts and distorts the truth.